DTS-10

This page documents my build of the Danley Sound Labs DTS-10 tapped horn subwoofer.

Danley Sound Labs delivery   DTS-10 kit   DTS-10 layout

We start with the freight delivery where you can see the sub comes packaged very well indeed.
A view of the kit "flat-packed" shows all components protected and or packaged individually.
I laid a tarp in my den and started laying out some of the panels for assembly.

stainless wood screws   polyurethane adhesive

The kit does not come with any hardware. I used 1-5/8"stainless steel square drive screws and polyurethane
adhesive, that I picked up from Home Depot. Be aware there are a few places where you need some 1-1/4"
screws or they will stick out the other side. These places are where the small piece screws in between the two
woofers and where the woofer board screws to the side panel. I just used the longer screws and cut the tip off
with my Dremel tool using a cut off blade. You could file, use a die grinder or whatever you have handy.

DTS-10 cabinet   DTS-10 cabinet   DTS-10 cabinet   DTS-10 cabinet

The cabinet assembly is very straight forward using the supplied pictured instructions.
Every piece is marked and you put it together one piece at a time.
I have pictures of each step but have only posted a few for you to get the general idea of assembly.

DTS-10 cabinet   DTS-10 woofers   Nuetrik speak-on cable   DST-10 build done

I installed the 12" woofers with 10-24 x 1-1/2 screws from my local hardware store. You could get away with
1-1/4" but
you will need a couple longer screws to compress the speaker gasket to get the shorter screws
started. The woofers are actually wired out of phase. You can do this in the cabinet and use just a single pair of
speaker terminals. I chose to take all four wires out of the cabinet via a Neutrik SpeakOn socket I got from
Part-Express.com
and wire them at my amps. I used a Neutrik SpeakOn 90 degree connector with some four
conductor pro cable, also from Parts Express. This way I can place the cabinet close to the wall. Access panels
all held with stainless steel 10-24 x1" screws. Now I have the cabinet ready for testing and room placement.
Y ou will need to try several locations and horn opening options to determine what is best for your room.

macassar ebony cut   macassar ebony layout   flush trim router

Next I cut some Macassar ebony wood backed veneer to achieve a diamond pattern on the cabinet.
I used a flush trim bit on my router to get all the side panel edges perfect with the ends in preparation for veneer.

maccess panel closed   macassar ebony going on    veneer saw push   veneer saw pull

I glued in a couple pieces of scrap veneer to level out the access panel that I glued closed.
With half of one side done, you start to see what this is going to look like.
Here is a very hand tool. It is a veneer trim saw. You can push or pull, as the teeth are reversed on each side.

pour glue   spread glue   glue veneer   iron it on

This is how the veneer is applied. I pour some Better Bond Heat Lock glue on and spread it with a rubber roller.
I do the same to the back side of the veneer and let both dry to touch. Then use a steam iron to reactivate the glue.

veneer   router   layout

With the veneer on I took the sub outside and used my router to trim off the excess.
We jump ahead and the back side veneer is cut and ready for glue.

dolly 1   dolly 2   dolly 3

The Front, The Back and in The Corner.
I still need to complete the finish but things are getting close.
It will sit on the floor when done. The 4-wheel dolley helps move it around with ease.

home theater   Danely DTS-10   Danely DTS-10 next room

Completed home theater and a final picture with the DTS-10 moved behind the curtain.

Words can not really do justice to how incredible the experience is.

~ Thank You Danley Sound Labs ~